Skin science article
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus bareMinerals Skinlongevity Long Life Herb Eye Treatment
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus bareMinerals Skinlongevity Long Life Herb Eye Treatment This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkle
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus bareMinerals Skinlongevity Long Life Herb Eye Treatment
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Pantethine
Glycerin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
S-Palmitoylglutathione
Dimethyl Mea
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Tyrosine
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Xanthan Gum
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Silica Cetyl Silylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Phenoxyethanol
Silica
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Propanediol, Pantethine, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, S-Palmitoylglutathione, Dimethyl Mea, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tyrosine, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, CI 77891, CI 77491
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Jojoba Esters
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Coconut Alkanes
Agar
Nylon-12
Trehalose
Peucedanum Japonicum Leaf/Stem Extract
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Eschscholzia Californica Leaf Cell Extract
Zingiber Aromaticus Extract
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Isoamyl Laurate
Panthenol
Potassium Hydroxide
Tocopherol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Sodium Citrate
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Metaphosphate
Citric Acid
T-Butyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pantolactone
Potassium Sorbate
Succinoglycan
Sodium Metabisulfite
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Jojoba Esters, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Coconut Alkanes, Agar, Nylon-12, Trehalose, Peucedanum Japonicum Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Eschscholzia Californica Leaf Cell Extract, Zingiber Aromaticus Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Isoamyl Laurate, Panthenol, Potassium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Metaphosphate, Citric Acid, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Potassium Sorbate, Succinoglycan, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.