Skin science article
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Retinyl Propionate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Pantethine
Glycerin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
S-Palmitoylglutathione
Dimethyl Mea
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Tyrosine
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Xanthan Gum
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Silica Cetyl Silylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Phenoxyethanol
Silica
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Propanediol, Pantethine, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, S-Palmitoylglutathione, Dimethyl Mea, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tyrosine, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, CI 77891, CI 77491
Butylene Glycol
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone
Retinyl Propionate
Retinol
Swertia Chirata Leaf Extract
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Glycine Soja Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Isopropyl Palmitate
Lecithin
Pvp
Hexylene Glycol
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer
PEG-8
Carbomer
Sodium Bisulfite
Sodium Hydroxide
Chlorphenesin
Parfum
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
CI 14700
CI 19140
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, Swertia Chirata Leaf Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Isopropyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Pvp, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, PEG-8, Carbomer, Sodium Bisulfite, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, CI 77891, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 14700, CI 19140
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!