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Skin science article

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Fill + Fix Under-Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Fill + Fix Under-Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging

Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Fill + Fix Under-Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Glycerin

Polysilicone-11

Bellis Perennis Flower Extract

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Sh-Pentapeptide-5

Hieracium Pilosella Extract

Caffeine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Glutathione Isomerized Linoleate

Glucomannan

Sodium Chloride

Silica

Silica Silylate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Trihydroxystearin

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lauryl Glucoside

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Chloride

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Propylene Glycol

Decyl Glucoside

Trisiloxane

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

1,2-Hexanediol

Mica

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Titanium Dioxide

Iron Oxides

CI 77492

CI 77491

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Sh-Pentapeptide-5, Hieracium Pilosella Extract, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Glutathione Isomerized Linoleate, Glucomannan, Sodium Chloride, Silica, Silica Silylate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Trihydroxystearin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Chloride, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Propylene Glycol, Decyl Glucoside, Trisiloxane, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Mica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, CI 77492, CI 77491, Phenoxyethanol

Dipropylene Glycol

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

PEG-35 Castor Oil

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Cordyceps Militaris Mycelium Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract

Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Lactobacillus Ferment

Phospholipids

Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate

Hydrolyzed Sericin

Cera Alba

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Panthenyl Triacetate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Ethyl Linoleate

Pentylene Glycol

Proline

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Oleyl Alcohol

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Adenosine Triphosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Pvp

Water, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, Hieracium Pilosella Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cordyceps Militaris Mycelium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Chloride, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment, Phospholipids, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Cera Alba, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Ethyl Linoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Proline, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Oleyl Alcohol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Silica, Silica Silylate, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Pvp, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Daisy extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

A study from 2021 found this extract to protect the skin against UV-A damage. This should not replace your sunscreen!

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

We don't have a description for Hieracium Pilosella Extract yet.

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone is a modified version of dimethicone with emulsifying properties. It helps add a silky and lightweight feel to products like sunscreens and foundations.

Its unique structure allows it to bridge the gap between water-loving and oil-loving ingredients. This makes it especially good at creating stable, velvety, and elegant formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Silica Silylate is a siloxane polymer, meaning it is made up of silicon and oxygen atoms. It is not soluble in water.

This ingredient is a white powder with oil-absorbing, emollient, and anticaking properties.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.

You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.

You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.

You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Dehydroacetate is a synthetic preservative and sodium salt form of dehydroacetic acid. It stops bacteria, mold, and yeast from growing in your products at low concentrations.

Clinical testing found it to be non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-photosensitizing. It's also not significantly absorbed through skin.

There are a very small number of reported cases of contact dermatitis in cases linked to wound-care creams used over compromised skin (rather than skincare).

Overall, this is a well-studied and low-risk preservative just doing its job.

Typical concentrations run up to 0.6%, which is also the maximum amount permitted under both EU CosIng regulations and US FDA guidelines.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Ingredients & structured notes

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