Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum Versus Meebak Cica Serum

Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum Versus Meebak Cica Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

C9-12 Alkane

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Trisiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polysilicone-11

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

Ceramide NP

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium PCA

Squalane

Tocopherol

Lecithin

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Hydroxystearic Acid

Triolein

Bisabolol

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

C9-12 Alkane, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Triolein, Bisabolol, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Raffinose

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Xanthan Gum

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Triethylhexanoin

Madecassoside

Polyquaternium-51

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water

Parfum

Oryza Sativa Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Algae Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Monascus Extract

Glycosyl Trehalose

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Adenosine

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Laureth-12

Dipropylene Glycol

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Beta-Glucan

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Fructooligosaccharides

Propylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Retinol

Cholesterol

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Tromethamine

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Polysilicone-11, Raffinose, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Madecassoside, Polyquaternium-51, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Oryza Sativa Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Algae Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Monascus Extract, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Laureth-12, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipropylene Glycol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Beta-Glucan, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Fructooligosaccharides, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Retinol, Cholesterol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tromethamine

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.

Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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