Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum Versus SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3

Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum Versus SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging treatment is f

Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Retinoid Peptide Serum Versus SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

C9-12 Alkane

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Trisiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane

Polysilicone-11

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

Ceramide NP

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium PCA

Squalane

Tocopherol

Lecithin

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Hydroxystearic Acid

Triolein

Bisabolol

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water

Mica

Phenoxyethanol

C9-12 Alkane, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Triolein, Bisabolol, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Alcohol Denat.

Dipropylene Glycol

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Isopropyl Myristate

Retinol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract

Dimethiconol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Citric Acid

BHT

Propyl Gallate

Water, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Alcohol Denat., Dipropylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Dimethiconol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Bisabolol, Citric Acid, BHT, Propyl Gallate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side