Skin science article
PURITO Dermide Relief Barrier Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
PURITO Dermide Relief Barrier Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-
PURITO Dermide Relief Barrier Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Behenyl Alcohol
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetyl Alcohol
Candida/Garcinia Cambogia Ferment
Ceramide NP
Glyceryl Stearate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Allantoin
Squalane
Caprylyl Glycol
Panthenol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Xanthan Gum
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Dipropylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Ceramide EOP
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Behenyl Alcohol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Candida/Garcinia Cambogia Ferment, Ceramide NP, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Allantoin, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysilicone-11
C10-18 Triglycerides
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Phenoxyethanol
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Laureth-12
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!