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Skin science article

Q + A Peptide Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Serum For Dry Skin

Q + A Peptide Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Serum For Dry Skin This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder and Tripeptide-29 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair serum is formulated a

Q + A Peptide Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 Serum For Dry Skin

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder and Tripeptide-29 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Panthenol and Vitreoscilla Ferment to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Betaine

Pentylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Sodium Phytate

Glycerin

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Sodium Levulinate

Tripeptide-29

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesium PCA

Lactic Acid

Glyceryl Caprylate

Cocoyl Proline

Sodium Anisate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Citric Acid

Water, Propylene Glycol, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Phytate, Glycerin, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Sodium Levulinate, Tripeptide-29, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium PCA, Lactic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Cocoyl Proline, Sodium Anisate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid

Panthenol

Alcohol Denat.

Dimethicone

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Vitreoscilla Ferment

Octyldodecanol

Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Octyldodecanol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  4. 04Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  5. 05Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  6. 06Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  7. 07This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  8. 08Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  9. 09Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  10. 10Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
  11. 11In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
  12. 12Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
  13. 13Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
  14. 14Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
  15. 15You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
  16. 16Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  17. 17So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  18. 18You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  19. 19Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
  20. 20On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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