Skin science article
QMS Medicosmetics Day Collagen Serum Versus La Prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift Serum
QMS Medicosmetics Day Collagen Serum Versus La Prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Atelocollagen to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated a
QMS Medicosmetics Day Collagen Serum Versus La Prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Atelocollagen to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Atelocollagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Panthenol
Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate
Glycoproteins
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Citric Acid
Butylene Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Carrageenan
Glyceryl Caprylate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Phytate
Arginine
Sodium Lactate
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Coco-Glucoside
Hexyl Cinnamal
Glycine
Parfum
Proline
Sorbitol
Potassium Sorbate
Linalool
Benzyl Benzoate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Dipotassium Phosphate
Alcohol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Atelocollagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Glycoproteins, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Carrageenan, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Phytate, Arginine, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Coco-Glucoside, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glycine, Parfum, Proline, Sorbitol, Potassium Sorbate, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sodium Citrate
Sd Alcohol 40-B
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Undecane
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Caviar Extract
Caviar Oil
Pullulan
Lactobacillus Ferment
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Sodium DNA
Rna
Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein
Tetrapeptide-3
Ceramide NP
Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycine Soja Oil
Propanediol
Silica
Dimethicone
Tridecane
Arachidyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Polysilicone-11
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Algin
Mica
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sucrose Stearate
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
Polysorbate 80
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Oleate
Tin Oxide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Benzyl Salicylate
Citronellol
Geraniol
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Limonene
Phenethyl Alcohol
Sodium Dehydroacetate
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Sodium Citrate, Glycerin, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Undecane, Alcohol, Glycoproteins, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Caviar Extract, Caviar Oil, Pullulan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Sodium DNA, Rna, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tetrapeptide-3, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine Soja Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Silica, Dimethicone, Tridecane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-11, Carrageenan, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Algin, Sodium Lactate, Mica, Carbomer, Coco-Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Stearate, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Oleate, Tin Oxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, CI 77891, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Carrageenan is a gel-forming sugar chain pulled out of red seaweed. In skincare, it's a texture ingredient rather than an active that:
Formulators typically use it around 0.1-2% but go up to 5% in thick gel masks or toothpaste-style products.
It's a very large molecule that doesn't meaningfully get through intact skin and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it's safe at current use levels.
True allergy is rare and there are only two published cases from internal/mucosal exposure rather than anything topical. Most of the scary internet content about Carrageenan is actually about poligeenan (also called "degraded carrageenan").
Poligeenan is a deliberately acid-broken down version that isn't food or cosmetic grade.
Coco-Glucoside is a surfactant, or a cleansing ingredient. It is made from glucose and coconut oil.
Surfactants help gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away.
This ingredient is considered gentle and non-comedogenic. However, it may still be irritating for some.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Glycoproteins are proteins with sugar chains attached to them. They're naturally found throughout your body, including your skin's extracellular matrix.
In your skin, glycoproteins work alongside collagen and other structural proteins to keep everything held together and functioning properly. Their sugar components make them great at binding water and keeping the skin hydrated. They also part of the extracellular matrix that plays a direct role in wound healing.
The glycoproteins found in skincare are most commonly derived from yeast, algae, or plant sources.
In-vitro studies have shown that yeast-derived glycoproteins can boost cellular oxygen content and increase energy production in skin cells.
In general, this is a well-tolerated humectant and skin conditioning ingredient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has found no signs of irritation, adverse effects, or abnormal reactions from this ingredient.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.