Skin science article
Revision Skincare D.E.J Eye Cream Versus Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel
Revision Skincare D.E.J Eye Cream Versus Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark sp
Revision Skincare D.E.J Eye Cream Versus Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Water
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sorbitol
Cetyl Palmitate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Cetyl Esters
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Decyl Cocoate
Sorbitan Stearate
Silanetriol
Rhamnose
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Sargassum Filipendula Extract
Butylene Glycol
Panthenol
Caprylyl Glycol
Squalane
Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Quinoa
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Steareth-10
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Steareth-20
Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Potassium Sorbate
Methylpropanediol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Polysorbate 60
Xanthan Gum
Glyceryl Caprylate
Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Tocopherol
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Water, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sorbitol, Cetyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cetyl Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Decyl Cocoate, Sorbitan Stearate, Silanetriol, Rhamnose, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Sargassum Filipendula Extract, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Quinoa, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Steareth-10, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Steareth-20, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Methylpropanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tribehenin
Ceramide Ng
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Disodium EDTA
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Retinyl Palmitate
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Methylparaben
Sodium Hydroxide
Propylparaben
Lactic Acid
Water, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tribehenin, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Methylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylparaben, Lactic Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!