Skin science article
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol This hydrating serum is formulated around Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calmi
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
This hydrating serum is formulated around Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglycerin-3
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glyceryl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Hyaluronic Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Pteris Multifida Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Cyclohexasiloxane
Dipropylene Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Fructooligosaccharides
Carbomer
Disodium EDTA
Polyquaternium-51
Tromethamine
Tocopherol
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Pteris Multifida Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dipropylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Fructooligosaccharides, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Tromethamine, Tocopherol
Panthenol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Betaine
Allantoin
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Malt Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Polyquaternium-51 is a polymer salt. It helps hydrate the skin by creating a film on top. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!