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Skin science article

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range a

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Titanium Dioxide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Caprylyl Methicone

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Glyceryl Glucoside

Panthenol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Allantoin

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Trisiloxane

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Alumina

Ascorbic Acid

Adenosine

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Stearic Acid

Dimethiconol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Polyether-1

CI 77492

CI 77491

T-Butyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Methicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Glucoside, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Trisiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Alumina, Ascorbic Acid, Adenosine, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Dimethiconol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyether-1, CI 77492, CI 77491, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum

Zinc Oxide

Coconut Alkanes

Glyceryl Stearate

Caramel

Silica

PEG-100 Stearate

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Phenoxyethanol

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Squalane

Bisabolol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Citric Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Lecithin

Polysorbate 60

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Tocopherol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Caramel, Glycerin, Silica, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Squalane, Bisabolol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.

You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.

Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.

The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Sodium Hyaluronate
  5. 05Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
  6. 06Carbomer
  7. 07Phenoxyethanol
  8. 08Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  9. 09Benzyl Alcohol
  10. 10Squalane
  11. 11Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
  12. 12Sodium PCA
  13. 13Sodium Hydroxide
  14. 14Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  15. 15Sodium Lactate
  16. 16Arginine
  17. 17Aspartic Acid
  18. 18Ethylhexylglycerin
  19. 19Sodium Gluconate
  20. 20PCA
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium A…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side