Skin science article
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range a
Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Titanium Dioxide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Caprylyl Methicone
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
1,2-Hexanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Glyceryl Glucoside
Panthenol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Trisiloxane
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Alumina
Ascorbic Acid
Adenosine
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Stearic Acid
Dimethiconol
Sodium Polyacrylate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Polyether-1
CI 77492
CI 77491
T-Butyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Methicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Glucoside, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Trisiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Alumina, Ascorbic Acid, Adenosine, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Dimethiconol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyether-1, CI 77492, CI 77491, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum
Zinc Oxide
Coconut Alkanes
Glyceryl Stearate
Caramel
Silica
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Phenoxyethanol
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polysilicone-11
Squalane
Bisabolol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Tocopheryl Acetate
Citric Acid
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Lecithin
Polysorbate 60
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Biosaccharide Gum-4
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Caramel, Glycerin, Silica, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Squalane, Bisabolol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.