Sacheu Beauty We Occlusive - Intense Overnight Moisturizer Versus Pur Cosmetics Tropical C Brightening Vitamin C & Peptide Moisturizer

Sacheu Beauty We Occlusive - Intense Overnight Moisturizer Versus Pur Cosmetics Tropical C Brightening Vitamin C & Peptide Moisturizer

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate

Polysorbate 60

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Glycerin

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Jojoba Esters

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Ethyl Macadamiate

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Rosinate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Xanthan Gum

Niacinamide

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Malic Acid

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Ethyl Macadamiate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Malic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Propanediol

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Trioctyldodecyl Citrate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Coconut Alkanes

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Litchi Chinensis Seed Extract

Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Nonapeptide-1

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Citrus Grandis Peel Extract

Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Mentha Piperita Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Junos Peel Extract

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Carbomer

Silica

Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer

Sodium Phosphate

Sodium Carbonate

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Phytic Acid

Disodium Phosphate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Water, Propanediol, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Squalane, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Litchi Chinensis Seed Extract, Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Nonapeptide-1, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Mentha Piperita Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Junos Peel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Carbomer, Silica, Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer, Malic Acid, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Phytic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethyl Macadamiate isn't fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Malic Acid is an acid with both AHA and BHA properties, but is considered an AHA because its AHA properties are stronger.

It can be naturally found in unripe fruit and especially apples (its name from the latin word "malum", meaning apple!).

Like other AHAs, malic acid gently removes the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin underneath.

Though it’s considered milder and less potent than glycolic or lactic acid, it can help improve:

Due to its larger molecular structure, it penetrates the skin more slowly and is often used in combination with other AHAs to enhance their overall effectiveness.

Malic acid often plays a role in balancing a product’s pH and is usually included in small amounts (around 1-2%) as a supporting exfoliant.

As with all exfoliating acids, you should wear sunscreen daily when using malic acid to protect your newly resurfaced skin.

Fun fact: Malic acid is the compound responsible for the tart flavor of apples and other sour fruits.

While research on malic acid is limited compared to glycolic or lactic acid, it’s still a safe and mild exfoliant.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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