Skin science article
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% Versus Pur Cosmetics Tropical C Brightening Vitamin C & Peptide Moisturizer
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% Versus Pur Cosmetics Tropical C Brightening Vitamin C & Peptide Moisturizer This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% Versus Pur Cosmetics Tropical C Brightening Vitamin C & Peptide Moisturizer
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ascorbic Acid
Squalane
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Coconut Alkanes
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucomannan
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Trihydroxystearin
BHT
Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Coconut Alkanes, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trihydroxystearin, BHT
Water
Propanediol
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Trioctyldodecyl Citrate
Ethyl Macadamiate
Glycerin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Litchi Chinensis Seed Extract
Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus Ferment
Nonapeptide-1
Citrus Limon Peel Extract
Citrus Grandis Peel Extract
Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Mentha Piperita Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Citrus Junos Peel Extract
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Carbomer
Silica
Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer
Malic Acid
Sodium Phosphate
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Phytic Acid
Disodium Phosphate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Citric Acid
Water, Propanediol, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Squalane, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Litchi Chinensis Seed Extract, Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Nonapeptide-1, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Mentha Piperita Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Junos Peel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Carbomer, Silica, Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer, Malic Acid, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Phytic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Coconut Alkanes is a lightweight, plant-derived emollient and solvent made from the fatty acids of coconut oil.
It spreads easily and adds a soft, silky, non-greasy slip, then evaporates rather than sinking into skin. Due to this behavior, it's prized as a natural and renewable replacement for silicones.
Typical use concentrations can go anywhere up to 20%.
The CIR Expert Panel has reviewed coconut oil and its hydrogenated derivatives and found them to be safe as used in cosmetics. It's a low-irritating and well-tolerated ingredient with no notable sensitization concerns.
Because it's a pure saturated hydrocarbon and not a free fatty acid or ester in the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on, it doesn't provide the lipids for Malassezia to feed on. This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for fungal acne.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.