Saturday Skin 4% Glycolic Acid & Pore Care Complex Versus Paula's Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA

Saturday Skin 4% Glycolic Acid & Pore Care Complex Versus Paula's Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA

This pore-care serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Glycolic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Propanediol

Ethoxydiglycol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Potassium Hydroxide

Choleth-24

Xylitol

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Octyldodeceth-16

Panthenol

Adenosine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Mentha Piperita Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sodium Phytate

Madecassoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Asiaticoside

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Cholesterol

Glycerin

PEG-800

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract

Polysorbate 20

Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-45

Sh-Polypeptide-8

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycolic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Potassium Hydroxide, Choleth-24, Xylitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Octyldodeceth-16, Panthenol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Mentha Piperita Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Phytate, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Asiaticoside, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cholesterol, Glycerin, PEG-800, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 20, Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-45, Sh-Polypeptide-8, Sh-Polypeptide-9

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Aminomethyl Propanol

Allantoin

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Avena Sativa Bran Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Peucedanum Graveolens Extract

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Adenosine, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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