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Skin science article

ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel

ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing exfoliator is

ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

PEG-8

Sodium Bicarbonate

Magnesium Oxide

Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Oleth-20

Trihydroxystearin

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Paraffinum Liquidum

Water

Tocopheryl Acetate

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Glycine Soja Sterols

Parfum

Limonene

Linalool

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Phenoxyethanol

CI 61565

PEG-8, Sodium Bicarbonate, Magnesium Oxide, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Oleth-20, Trihydroxystearin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Water, Tocopheryl Acetate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Glycine Soja Sterols, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phenoxyethanol, CI 61565

Aminomethyl Propanol

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Isoamyl Laurate

Tartaric Acid

Propanediol

Salicylic Acid

Malic Acid

Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Tocopherol

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Titanium Dioxide

Mica

Water, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Isoamyl Laurate, Tartaric Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  7. 07The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  8. 08Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  9. 09Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  10. 10Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  11. 11Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  12. 12Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  13. 13This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  14. 14Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  15. 15Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  16. 16This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
  17. 17It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
  18. 18Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
  19. 19Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
  20. 20It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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