Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Superdrug Optimum Collagen Serum Versus Revolution Beauty Revolution Pro Miracle Serum

Superdrug Optimum Collagen Serum Versus Revolution Beauty Revolution Pro Miracle Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide

Superdrug Optimum Collagen Serum Versus Revolution Beauty Revolution Pro Miracle Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Betaine

Decyl Oleate

Isoamyl Laurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Triethyl Citrate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Polyglutamate

Benzoic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glycine Soja Oil

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Collagen Amino Acids

Tocopherol

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Beta-Sitosterol

Hydroxycitronellal

Squalene

Limonene

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Citronellol

Eugenol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Decyl Oleate, Isoamyl Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Triethyl Citrate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Polyglutamate, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycine Soja Oil, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen Amino Acids, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Beta-Sitosterol, Hydroxycitronellal, Squalene, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Eugenol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

Isohexadecane

Isononyl Isononanoate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Phenoxyethanol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Yeast Ferment Extract

Arginine Hcl

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Plumeria Alba Flower Extract

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Ipomoea Batatas Tuber Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Lactobacillus Ferment

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

Potassium Sorbate

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Copper Gluconate

Sodium Benzoate

Sorbic Acid

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Beta-Carotene

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Benzyl Alcohol

Geraniol

Linalool

Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Arginine Hcl, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Sodium Polyglutamate, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Ipomoea Batatas Tuber Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lactobacillus Ferment, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Copper Gluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sorbic Acid, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Beta-Carotene, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

We don't have a description for Sodium Polyglutamate yet.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.
  4. 04In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.
  5. 05The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has su…
  6. 06This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.
  7. 07Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induce…
  8. 08Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.
  9. 09Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).
  10. 10The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.
  11. 11Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
  12. 12Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
  13. 13The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
  14. 14Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
  15. 15Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  16. 16The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  17. 17Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  18. 18Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  19. 19Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  20. 20Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Hanasui Vitamin C + Collagen Serum

Hanasui Vitamin C + Collagen Serum Hanasui Vitamin C + Collagen Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Betaine, Biosaccharide …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

Bloomka 9x Collagen Serum

Bloomka 9x Collagen Serum Bloomka 9x Collagen Serum ingredients explained: Water, Niacinamide, Collagen Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Propanediol, Rhizobian Gum, So…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side