Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal

Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginsen

Shiseido Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%

Homosalate 10%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Octocrylene 10%

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Paraffinum Liquidum

Hydroxystearic Acid

Triethylhexanoin

PEG/PPG-9/2 Dimethyl Ether

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polyamide-8

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Tocopheryl Acetate

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Lecithin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

PPG-17

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

BHT

Tocopherol

PEG-6

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Silica

Parfum

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%, Homosalate 10%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 10%, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Hydroxystearic Acid, Triethylhexanoin, PEG/PPG-9/2 Dimethyl Ether, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyamide-8, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Lecithin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, PPG-17, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, BHT, Tocopherol, PEG-6, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Silica, Parfum

Water

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetearyl Olivate

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Glyceryl Stearate

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Adenosine

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Dextrin

Cholesterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Retinal

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Ceramide NP

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Retinal, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
  11. 11Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
  12. 12This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
  13. 13A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
  14. 14Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
  15. 15Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
  16. 16Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
  17. 17Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  18. 18Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  19. 19Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  20. 20Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side