Skin science article
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This acne seru
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
C10-18 Triglycerides
PEG-8 Beeswax
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Tapioca Starch
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Citric Acid
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
Glycerin
Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Bisabolol
Jojoba Esters
Tocopherol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Limonene
Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin
Nylon-12
Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax
Rosa Damascena Flower Wax
Sodium Phytate
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Alcohol Denat.
Chlorphenesin
Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Linalool
Dehydroacetic Acid
Water, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, C10-18 Triglycerides, PEG-8 Beeswax, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Tapioca Starch, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Citric Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Glycerin, Citrus Tangerina Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Bisabolol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Nylon-12, Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax, Rosa Damascena Flower Wax, Sodium Phytate, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Chlorphenesin, Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Lippia Citriodora Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linalool, Dehydroacetic Acid
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!