Skin science article
SkinBetter Science Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream
SkinBetter Science Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Cholesterol and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is
SkinBetter Science Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Cholesterol and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate
Cholesterol
Glycerin
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Lactate
Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate
Sodium PCA
Squalane
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
Ethyl Macadamiate
N-Capryloyl Lysine
Jojoba Esters
Carnitine
Dimethicone
Sodium Hyaluronate
Urea
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Carnosine
Caffeine
Salicylic Acid
Tocopherol
Pullulan
Caprylyl Methicone
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Triethyl Citrate
Silica
Lecithin
Phytic Acid
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Triacetin
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Lactic Acid
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Cholesterol, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Ethyl Macadamiate, N-Capryloyl Lysine, Jojoba Esters, Carnitine, Dimethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Urea, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Carnosine, Caffeine, Salicylic Acid, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Caprylyl Methicone, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethyl Citrate, Silica, Lecithin, Phytic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Triacetin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Lactic Acid
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Cetyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Alcohol Denat.
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylyl Glycol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Totarol
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Maltodextrin
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Maltodextrin, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Butylene Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.