Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream

U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated

U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Pentylene Glycol

Octyldodecanol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Sorbitol

Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Magnesium Sulfate

Panthenol

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Beta-Glucan

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Superoxide Dismutase

Glycolic Acid

Lactobionic Acid

Glutathione

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Dextran

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Cera Alba

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Butylene Glycol

Mica

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Titanium Dioxide

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate

Propylene Carbonate

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Water, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Sorbitol, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycolic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Cera Alba, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Butylene Glycol, Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Cetyl Alcohol

Glycerin

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Alcohol Denat.

Sorbitan Olivate

Phenoxyethanol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Totarol

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Maltodextrin

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Maltodextrin, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Butylene Glycol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
  4. 04Its main roles are:
  5. 05Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
  6. 06The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
  7. 07This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
  8. 08Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  9. 09The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  10. 10Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  11. 11Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  12. 12Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  13. 13Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  14. 14Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  15. 15This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  16. 16Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  17. 17Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  18. 18Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  19. 19It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  20. 20On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side