Skin science article
U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream
U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated
U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Face Reality Skincare Cran-Peptide Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Pentylene Glycol
Octyldodecanol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Sorbitol
Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil
Methyldihydrojasmonate
Magnesium Sulfate
Panthenol
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Beta-Glucan
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Linoleic Acid
Oleic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Superoxide Dismutase
Glycolic Acid
Lactobionic Acid
Glutathione
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Dextran
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Acetyl Hexapeptide-37
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Cera Alba
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Butylene Glycol
Mica
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Titanium Dioxide
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Propylene Carbonate
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Polysorbate 20
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Water, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Sorbitol, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycolic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Cera Alba, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Butylene Glycol, Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Alcohol Denat.
Sorbitan Olivate
Phenoxyethanol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Totarol
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Maltodextrin
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Maltodextrin, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Butylene Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.