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SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex Versus PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum

SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex Versus PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingr

SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex Versus PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Human Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media

Isoceteth-20

Ethoxydiglycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Aminomethyl Propanol

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Hydroxycitronellal

Linalool

Coumarin

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Geraniol

Isoeugenol

Human Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Coumarin, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Isoeugenol

Water

Polysilicone-11

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Sodium Benzoate

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethylene Brassylate

Pullulan

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Lactic Acid

Laureth-12

Carnosine

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Bacillus Ferment

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide

Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide

Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide

Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide

Ergothioneine

Water, Polysilicone-11, Propanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylene Brassylate, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Laureth-12, Carnosine, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Anigozanthos Flavidus Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bacillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide, Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide, Ergothioneine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

PCA Skin Sheer Tint Eye Triple Complex Broad Spectrum Spf30Ingredients explained

  1. 01When it comes to sunscreen agents, Zinc Oxide is pretty much in a league of its own. It's a physical (or inorganic) sunscreen that has a lot in common with fellow inorganic sunscreen Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) but a couple of things make it superior ev…
  2. 02If physical sunscreens don't tell you anything, go ahead and read about the basics here. Most of what we wrote about Titanium Dioxide is also true for Zinc Oxide so we will focus here on the differences.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04The first main difference is that while TiO2 gives a nice broad spectrum protection, Zinc Oxide has an even nicer and even broader spectrum protection. It protects against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I almost uniformly, and is considered to be the broadest…
  5. 05It's also highly stable and non-irritating. So much so that Zinc Oxide also counts as a skin protectant and anti-irritant. It's also often used to treat skin irritations such as diaper rash.
  6. 06As for the disadvantages, Zinc Oxide is also not cosmetically elegant. It leaves a disturbing whitish tint on the skin, although, according to a 2000 research paper by Dr. Pinnell, it's slightly less white than TiO2. Still, it's white and disturbing…
  7. 07We wrote more about nanoparticles and the concerns around them here, but the gist is that if nanoparticles were absorbed into the skin that would be a reason for legitimate health concerns. But luckily, so far research shows that sunscreen nanoparti…
  8. 08All in all, if you've found a Zinc Oxide sunscreen that you are happy to use every single day, that's fantastic and we suggest you stick with it. It's definitely one of the best, or probably even the best option out there for sun protection availabl…
  9. 09A four amino acid peptide that is claimed to improve puffy eye bags via its anti-oedema and anti-glycation effects.
  10. 10To back this claim up, the manufacturer created an in-vivo study with 20 volunteers using 10% of EYESERYL (that comes down to 0.01% (!) of the pure peptide) and found that by day 15, 70% of the volunteers improved, while 95% of the volunteers improv…
  11. 11But, the thing is that puffiness around the eyes can have multiple reasons and one of the major ones is fat accumulation that might happen as we age. No miracle cream or ingredient can do much about that, however, another common reason is water accu…
  12. 12We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  13. 13A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type with a long oil loving chain of 20 carbon atoms) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and it also helps the oily and the watery parts to stay nicely mixed together (called emulsion stabilizing).
  14. 14An ingredient that is created from the attachment of the water-loving sugar molecule, glucose, and an oil-loving 20 carbon long fatty chain. This makes it a partly water- and partly oil-soluble material, meaning it functions as an emulsifier helping…
  15. 15Most often, it comes to the formula coupled with two fatty alcohol friends, Arachidyl and Behenyl alcohol, to make up an emulsifier trio trade named Montanov 202. As described by its manufacturer, the main thing of Montanonv 202 is that it gives cre…
  16. 16A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type with a long oil loving chain of 22 carbon atoms) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and it also helps the oily and the watery parts to stay nicely mixed together (called emulsion stabilizing).
  17. 17It's one of the active parts of Chamomile that contains about 30% of bisabolol. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.
  18. 18Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.
  19. 19BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting…
  20. 20It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive.
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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