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Skin science article

Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Exfoliating Toner Versus Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution With 2% Salicylic Acid

Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Exfoliating Toner Versus Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution With 2% Salicylic Acid This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Niacinamide and Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water to r

Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Exfoliating Toner Versus Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution With 2% Salicylic Acid

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Niacinamide and Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.

This acne exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to clear breakouts and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Lens Esculenta Seed Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Swiftlet Nest Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Fructan

Allantoin

Adenosine

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Xylitol

Salicylic Acid

Lactobionic Acid

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

1,2-Hexanediol

Benzyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Raspberry Ketone

Mentha Piperita Oil

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Seed Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Fructan, Allantoin, Adenosine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Xylitol, Salicylic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Benzyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Raspberry Ketone, Mentha Piperita Oil

Salicylic Acid 2%

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Panthenol

PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer

Methyl Gluceth-20

Glycereth-26

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sodium Metabisulfite

Salicylic Acid 2%, Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Panthenol, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Metabisulfite

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Alumina (aka aluminum oxide) is an inorganic mineral powder refined from bauxite that works as a quiet workhorse in a formula.
  4. 04It shows up often as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking, bulking, and viscosity-controlling agent.
  5. 05One of its most common jobs is acting as a pigment carrier and dispersant.
  6. 06Alumina platelets are often blended with inorganic sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide (or with colorants) and then coated with a silicone such as Triethoxycaprylylsilane so the pigment spreads evenly and smoothly.
  7. 07In makeup, it can also double as a light-diffusing powder or oil absorber to keep formulas from looking greasy.
  8. 08The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded alumina to be safe in present practices of use and concentration.
  9. 09They note it's a stable, oxidized compound and scientific research has failed to establish links to health issues.
  10. 10Concentrations vary depending on the product:
  11. 11Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
  12. 12It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
  13. 13Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic ac…
  14. 14The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
  15. 15These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
  16. 16A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
  17. 17And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
  18. 18There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
  19. 19Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
  20. 20AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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