Skin science article
Stratia Interface Cream Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer
Stratia Interface Cream Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formul
Stratia Interface Cream Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Squalane
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Panthenol
Ethoxydiglycol
Dimethicone
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol
Acetyl Glutamine
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Allantoin
Caprylyl Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Disodium EDTA
Polyacrylamide
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
Laureth-7
Diazolidinyl Urea
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Panthenol, Ethoxydiglycol, Dimethicone, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Laureth-7, Diazolidinyl Urea, Xanthan Gum
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Vitis Vinifera Oil
Sorbitan Stearate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phenoxyethanol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Citric Acid
Carbomer
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ceramide EOP
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Vitis Vinifera Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Sorbitan Stearate, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.