Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This anti-aging moisturizer is for

Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Versus Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf and Ceramide Ng to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Diglycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf

Glycerin

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate

Butylene Glycol

Diisostearyl Malate

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Propanediol

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract

Ceramide Ng

Palmitic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract

Cetyl Alcohol

Sucrose Stearate

Sucrose Palmitate

Maltodextrin

Sargassum Vulgare Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Hydrolyzed Lagenaria Siceraria Fruit Juice

Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract

Tocopherol

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phytosterols

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Mica

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Diglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Glycerin, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Diisostearyl Malate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Propanediol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract, Ceramide Ng, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf/Stem Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate, Maltodextrin, Sargassum Vulgare Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Lagenaria Siceraria Fruit Juice, Salvia Miltiorrhiza Root Extract, Tocopherol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosterols, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Nymphaea Alba Root Extract

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine

Arginine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Threonine

Valine

Acetyl Glutamine

Coconut Alkanes

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Aspartic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Lecithin

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Lactate

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 60

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Isomalt

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Benzoate

Phenylpropanol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Nymphaea Alba Root Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine, Arginine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Valine, Acetyl Glutamine, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenylpropanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.

Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.

Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.

Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.

One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.

This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.

Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.

Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.

Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.

Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Cetearyl Alcohol
  5. 05Cetearyl Olivate
  6. 06Sorbitan Olivate
  7. 07Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  8. 08Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
  9. 09Nymphaea Alba Root Extract
  10. 10Sh-Oligopeptide-1
  11. 11Sh-Oligopeptide-2
  12. 12Sh-Polypeptide-1
  13. 13Sh-Polypeptide-9
  14. 14Sh-Polypeptide-11
  15. 15Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
  16. 16Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
  17. 17Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
  18. 18Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  19. 19Alanine
  20. 20Arginine
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side