Skin science article
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Hydropeptide Power Lift
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Hydropeptide Power Lift This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bu
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream Versus Hydropeptide Power Lift
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Glycerin
Propanediol
Dimethicone
Squalane
Diisostearyl Malate
Behenyl Alcohol
Myristyl Myristate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Inositol
Sorbitan Tristearate
Beheneth-20
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract
Thymus Serpyllum Extract
Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Gold
Sericin
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Butylene Glycol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Gluconolactone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Mica
Tin Oxide
CI 77891
CI 60725
Water, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Behenyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Inositol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Beheneth-20, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gold, Sericin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Mica, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 60725
Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Alcohol
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Arachidyl Alcohol
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Oryza Sativa Bran
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Panthenol
Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Menthoxypropanediol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sorbitan Laurate
Cyclodextrin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Buddleja Davidii Extract
Disodium EDTA
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate
Arbutin
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tropolone
Myristoyl Tripeptide-31
Sodium Metabisulfite
Hexapeptide-10
Diacetyl Boldine
Triethyl Citrate
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Salvia Officinalis Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Water, Butylene Glycol, Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Oryza Sativa Bran, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Panthenol, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Menthoxypropanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Laurate, Squalane, Cyclodextrin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Disodium EDTA, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate, Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tropolone, Myristoyl Tripeptide-31, Sodium Metabisulfite, Hexapeptide-10, Diacetyl Boldine, Triethyl Citrate, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!