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Skin science article

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores. This hydrating serum is formulated a

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin

Zinc PCA

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Pentylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Algin

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Calcium Chloride

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Zinc PCA, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Algin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Saccharide Isomerate

Allantoin

Disodium EDTA

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Lactic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Carbomer

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Sodium Lactate

Aminoethylphosphinic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Aminoethylphosphinic Acid, Butylene Glycol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  10. 10Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  11. 11Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  12. 12Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  13. 13Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  14. 14However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  15. 15Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  16. 16In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  17. 17While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  18. 18Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
  19. 19Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
  20. 20However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's…
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Biba de Sousa Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Biba de Sousa Hyaluronic Acid Serum Ingredients in Biba de Sousa Hyaluronic Acid Serum explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 10 ingredients including Water, Glycerin, and …

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01What Skin Types Should Use Hyaluronic Acid?

“Hyaluronic acid is particularly helpful for those experiencing dry skin, and for those desiring a plumping effect,” explains Dr. King. But, if you have an oily skin type, don’t discredit hyaluronic acid from your routine just yet. Despite the excess sebum that you may experience, it’s important to keep your skin hydrated so that it doesn’t overcompensate and produce even more oil as a result. Besides your skin type, you should also look at the condition of your skin to decide if it’s time to begin using hyaluronic acid. “If your skin is starting to look dull, flaky and you’re seeing more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles, that’s a pretty good indication that it’s time to add this ingredient to your routine,” adds O’Conner.

Source · www.skincare.com
02Is Serum Good for All Skin Types?

Serums are a form of skincare that can be added to any routine no matter what your skin type is. All skin types can benefit from the use of a serum since there are so many different formulations that can target specific skincare concerns. “Serums are used for hydration,to aid [or] maintain the skin barrier, or treat skin issues like acne or rosacea,” says Dr. Lewis. The type of serum that you may use should depend on the skin issue you’re trying to target. Think of serums as a treatment for the skin. “Some serums can reverse damage and help prevent free radicals that cause the signs of aging skin,” adds Dr. Lewis.

Source · www.skincare.com