Skin science article
The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores. This hydrating serum is formulated a
The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Ethoxydiglycol
Glycerin
Zinc PCA
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Pentylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Algin
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Calcium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Zinc PCA, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Algin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Saccharide Isomerate
Allantoin
Disodium EDTA
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Carbomer
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Sodium Lactate
Aminoethylphosphinic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Aminoethylphosphinic Acid, Butylene Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.