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Skin science article

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Earth Rhythm 10% Niacinamide + Phyto Ceramides + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Earth Rhythm 10% Niacinamide + Phyto Ceramides + Hyaluronic Acid Serum This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores. This oil-control seru

The Derma Co 10% Niacinamide Face Serum Versus Earth Rhythm 10% Niacinamide + Phyto Ceramides + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin

Zinc PCA

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Pentylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Algin

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Calcium Chloride

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Zinc PCA, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Algin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid

Dimethicone

Polysilicone-11

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 40

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Ceramide NP

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Panthenol

Water, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 40, Ethoxydiglycol, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethoxydiglycol (aka Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) is one of the cosmetic world's quiet problem solvers.

In a formula, it is a solvent that dissolves tricky ingredients that don't want to mix in and helps spread ingredients evenly across your skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling

This makes it great for hard-to-dissolve actives like vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and self-tanner DHA.

It also has mild humectant and penetration enhancer abilities so it can help some actives absorb a little deeper.

The penetration boost is backed by lab research: studies using human skin samples found it improved how well an active dissolves into the upper layer of skin rather than tearing down your skin barrier. Reviews of its mechanism also describe it interacting gently with the lipids and water in your outermost layer of skin.

Just know this penetration-enhancing effect is not universal. It helps a lot in some formulas and did very little in others (so the benefit really depends on the specific product).

Safety-wise, the evidence is reassuring. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it and concluded it's safe for use in cosmetics and recognized it as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic in skincare.

Typical leave-on skincare usage lands around 1-10%. The EU has sets caps of 2.6% in non-spray products, 10% in rinse-offs, 7% in oxidative hair dye, and 5% in non-oxidative hair dye.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Butylene Glycol
  5. 05Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
  6. 06Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
  7. 07Isododecane
  8. 08Dimethiconol
  9. 09Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
  10. 10Ethylhexylglycerin
  11. 11Benzyl Alcohol
  12. 12Sodium Lactate
  13. 13Cetearyl Olivate
  14. 14Bisabolol
  15. 15Chlorphenesin
  16. 16Sorbitan Olivate
  17. 17Sodium PCA
  18. 18Parfum
  19. 19Sodium Hyaluronate
  20. 20Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01When and How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Routine

Products with hyaluronic acid can be used in the morning or at night (or both!). Applying the hydrating ingredient at night will restore your skin’s resilience while you sleep, and applying it in the morning will leave your skin feeling plump, hydrated and ready for makeup. Hyaluronic acid is great at providing topical hydration when it’s introduced into a balanced skincare routine. According to Dr. King, it’s important to pair your hyaluronic acid products with an emollient or occlusive moisturizer to lock in hydration.

Source · www.skincare.com
02Is Serum Good for All Skin Types?

Serums are a form of skincare that can be added to any routine no matter what your skin type is. All skin types can benefit from the use of a serum since there are so many different formulations that can target specific skincare concerns. “Serums are used for hydration,to aid [or] maintain the skin barrier, or treat skin issues like acne or rosacea,” says Dr. Lewis. The type of serum that you may use should depend on the skin issue you’re trying to target. Think of serums as a treatment for the skin. “Some serums can reverse damage and help prevent free radicals that cause the signs of aging skin,” adds Dr. Lewis.

Source · www.skincare.com