Skin science article
The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer Versus ACO Canoderm
The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer Versus ACO Canoderm This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Avena Sativa Kernel Flour to refine skin texture and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Urea to strengthen the skin
The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer Versus ACO Canoderm
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Avena Sativa Kernel Flour to refine skin texture and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Urea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Urea
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Squalane
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Carbomer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Gluconate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Water, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Dehydroacetic Acid
C10-18 Triglycerides
Polysorbate 60
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Propylene Glycol
Carbomer
Dimethicone
Paraffin
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Methylparaben
Sodium Lactate
Lactic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-8 Stearate
Urea, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Paraffin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Methylparaben, Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, Water
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Urea is also called carbamide and is the diamide of carbonic acid. In cosmetics, urea is used to hydrate the skin. It also provides exfoliation in higher concentrations.
As a humectant, urea helps draw moisture from the air and from deep within the skin. This helps hydrate your skin. Studies show urea is an effective moisturizer for dry skin conditions. 40% urea is typical in medications for treating eczema and other skin conditions.
Urea has the strongest exfoliation effect in concentrations higher than 10%. It is a keratolytic agent, meaning it breaks down the keratin protein in the top layer of skin. This helps remove dead skin cells and flaking skin.
In medicine, urea has been shown to help increase the potency of other ingredients, such as fungal treatments.
Humans and animals use urea to metabolize nitrogen-containing compounds. Urea is highly soluble in water. Once dissolved, it is neither acidic nor alkaline.
Urea is actually one of the more well-studied and well-supported ingredients out there if you have eczema.
Clinical trials have shown that urea creams in the 5 - 10% range can:
Higher concentrations (20 -30%) can also help with thickened, scaly patches but is also more likely to sting on active flares.
Skip urea if you have rosacea. The AAD (American Academy of Dermatology) lists it alongside alcohol, menthol, and fragrance as a potential irritant for rosacea-prone skin. Urea's keratolytic and penetration-enhancing properties can trigger stinging, burning, and redness.
As always, your skin is unique, so definitely check in with your dermatologist.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!