The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer Versus rhode Glazing Milk Essence

The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer Versus rhode Glazing Milk Essence

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Avena Sativa Kernel Flour to refine skin texture and hydrate skin.

This hydrating essence is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Urea

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Squalane

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Carbomer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Water, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Dehydroacetic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Coconut Alkanes

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Beta-Glucan

Copper Gluconate

Magnesium Aspartate

Oleic Acid

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Zinc Gluconate

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Phosphatidylglycerol

Phytosphingosine

Caprylyl Glycol

Cholesterol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Carbomer

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Pentylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Benzoate

Chlorphenesin

Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Mono/Dioleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Beta-Glucan, Copper Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Gluconate, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Phosphatidylglycerol, Phytosphingosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Cholesterol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Citric Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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