Skin science article
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Bliss Bright Idea Serum
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Bliss Bright Idea Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorb
The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Bliss Bright Idea Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Sodium Hydroxide
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Metabisulfite
Dehydroacetic Acid
Phytic Acid
Oligopeptide-1
Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1
Glycerin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Propanediol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Glucose
Bisabolol
Squalane
Hydrogenated Farnesene
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
C14-22 Alcohols
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sodium Citrate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Citric Acid
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ethoxydiglycol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Acacia Senegal Gum
Lecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Pullulan
Hexylene Glycol
Parfum
Limonene
Water, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glucose, Bisabolol, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Citrate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.