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The INKEY List Alpha Arbutin Serum Versus COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum

The INKEY List Alpha Arbutin Serum Versus COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl

The INKEY List Alpha Arbutin Serum Versus COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Glycerin

Alpha-Arbutin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Squalane

Phospholipids

Glycine Soja Oil

Carbomer

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Phytate

Glycolipids

Sorbitan Isostearate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Glycine Soja Sterols

Hyaluronic Acid

Tocopherol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Phospholipids, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Sterols, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol

Pentylene Glycol

Niacinamide 15%

Acetyl Glucosamine

1,2-Hexanediol

Zinc PCA

Trehalose

Xanthan Gum

Pullulan

Allantoin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide 15%, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Glucosamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Zinc PCA, Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Pullulan, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
  4. 04It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
  5. 05Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic ac…
  6. 06The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
  7. 07These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
  8. 08A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
  9. 09And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
  10. 10There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
  11. 11Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
  12. 12AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
  13. 13Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-…
  14. 14Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  15. 15Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  16. 16Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  17. 17Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  18. 18This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  19. 19Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  20. 20Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxa…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

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