The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Extra Strength Daily Peel

The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Extra Strength Daily Peel

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycolic Acid

Glycerin

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Polysorbate 20

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Acetum

Sodium Hydroxide

Propanediol

Xanthan Gum

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Lactobacillus

Phenoxyethanol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Maltodextrin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Acer Saccharum Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Phytic Acid

Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Water, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Acetum, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Lactobacillus, Phenoxyethanol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Acer Saccharum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phytic Acid, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Potassium Hydroxide

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Salicylic Acid

Lactic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Malic Acid

Citric Acid

Menthone Glycerin Acetal

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Copper PCA

Zinc PCA

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Alcohol

Polysorbate 80

Parfum

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzoic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Bicarbonate

Resveratrol

Retinol

Ascorbic Acid

Ubiquinone

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Phospholipids

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Raphanus Sativus Root Extract

Sodium PCA

BHT

Octoxynol-9

Simethicone

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Resveratrol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Ubiquinone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Sodium PCA, BHT, Octoxynol-9, Simethicone, Tetrasodium EDTA

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Salix Alba Bark Extract comes from the bark of the white willow tree. The official CosIng listing states this ingredient to have astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, and tonic properties.

Its star compound is salicin, a natural glucoside that is chemically related to salicylic acid. That's why you'll often see it marketed as a "natural BHA alternative" but that's a bit of a stretch.

Your skin can't convert salicin to salicylic acid because it needs specific enzymes that aren't present on the skin's surface. It won't behave like true salicylic acid, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics.

However, this ingredient has its own perks. It contains flavonoids, polyphenols, and tannins that give it proven antioxidant and soothing properties.

An 8-week clinical study found a cream with 2% of this extract improved skin microcirculation, elasticity, and dark circles. This is most likely due to its role in increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and improved vascular integrity.

Another study found a topical serum with 0.5% salicin showed improvements in visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture.

Just be careful if you have a known aspirin/salicylate allergy and be sure to consult with a medical professional about using this ingredient if you do.

Fun fact: Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years and ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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