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The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-con

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The INKEY List Kaolin Clay Mask

This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Betaine

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Zinc PCA

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Kaolin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Stearic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Sodium Stearate

Sodium Magnesium Silicate

Dimethyl Sulfone

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glyceryl Caprylate

Decyl Glucoside

Cellulose Gum

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Cetyl Alcohol

Sodium Carbomer

Tocopherol

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Sea Water Extract

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Lonicera Japonica Leaf Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Panthenol

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Geranium Maculatum Extract

Taraxacum Officinale Extract

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Spirulina Maxima Extract

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Water, Kaolin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Sulfone, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Decyl Glucoside, Cellulose Gum, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Carbomer, Tocopherol, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Sea Water Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Lonicera Japonica Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

The Inkey List Mandelic Acid TreatmentIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved.
  7. 07It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.
  8. 08Mandelic acid is an AHA that comes from bitter almond
  9. 09It can gently lift off dead surface skin cells and make the skin more smooth and even
  10. 10It has antibacterial properties
  11. 11It’s promising against acne and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
  12. 12It’s light sensitive, so choose a product with opaque packaging
  13. 13A light emollient ester (C8-10 fatty acids connected to C12-18 fatty alcohols) that absorbs quickly and leaves a dry but silky finish on the skin. In terms of skin feel, it is similar to Dicaprylyl Carbonate, another commonly used light emollient.
  14. 14An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Its ty…
  15. 15It’s a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties …
  16. 16A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  17. 17A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  18. 18Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  19. 19Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  20. 20High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

Read side by side