Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydrox

The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion

This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Betaine

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Zinc PCA

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethyl Linoleate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Bisabolol

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Retinol

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Glyceryl Stearate

Ceteareth-12

Ceteareth-20

Cetearyl Alcohol

Carrageenan

Xanthan Gum

Acacia Senegal Gum

Cetyl Palmitate

Sucrose Laurate

Polysorbate 20

Isoceteth-20

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone

Behentrimonium Chloride

Disodium EDTA

Dehydroacetic Acid

Benzoic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
  4. 04Persea Gratissima Oil
  5. 05Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  6. 06Cetearyl Alcohol
  7. 07Glyceryl Stearate Se
  8. 08Squalane
  9. 09Retinol
  10. 10Phenoxyethanol
  11. 11Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  12. 12Benzyl Alcohol
  13. 13Phospholipids
  14. 14Tocopherol
  15. 15Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
  16. 16Glycine Soja Oil
  17. 17Ethylhexylglycerin
  18. 18Glycolipids
  19. 19Dehydroacetic Acid
  20. 20Polysorbate 60
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream

The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Distearat…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser ingredients explained: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kerne…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side