Skin science article
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydrox
The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Versus The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Betaine
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Zinc PCA
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethyl Linoleate
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Bisabolol
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Retinol
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Glyceryl Stearate
Ceteareth-12
Ceteareth-20
Cetearyl Alcohol
Carrageenan
Xanthan Gum
Acacia Senegal Gum
Cetyl Palmitate
Sucrose Laurate
Polysorbate 20
Isoceteth-20
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Behentrimonium Chloride
Disodium EDTA
Dehydroacetic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!