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The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream

The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hy

The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Propanediol

Polysilicone-11

C10-18 Triglycerides

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Ceramide NP

Polyacrylate-13

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Laureth-12

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Behenyl Alcohol

Octyldodecanol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Vinyldimethicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Methicone

Centella Asiatica Extract

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Betaine

C14-22 Alcohols

Phytosterols

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Dimethiconol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glyceryl Glucoside

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Sodium Phytate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Linolenic Acid

Sphingolipids

Phosphatidylcholine

4-Terpineol

Allantoin

Ectoin

Hyaluronic Acid

Squalane

Lecithin

Asiaticoside

Escin

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Glycine

Glutamic Acid

Serine

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Proline

Threonine

Water, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Octyldodecanol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Vinyldimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Methicone, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Betaine, C14-22 Alcohols, Ceramide NP, Phytosterols, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Glucoside, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Sodium Phytate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Linolenic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sphingolipids, Phosphatidylcholine, 4-Terpineol, Allantoin, Ectoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Lecithin, Asiaticoside, Escin, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Proline, Threonine

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.

It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.

On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).

Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
  4. 04Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
  5. 05The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
  6. 06Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
  7. 07Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
  8. 08It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
  9. 09As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
  10. 10Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
  11. 11Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
  12. 12Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
  13. 13It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behav…
  14. 14Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  15. 15The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  16. 16Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  17. 17Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  18. 18Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  19. 19Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  20. 20Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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