Skin science article
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Cream
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate s
The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil and Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Propanediol
Polysilicone-11
C10-18 Triglycerides
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Ceramide NP
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Laureth-12
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Methyl Trimethicone
Stearyl Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Trehalose
Octadecene
Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Carbomer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cholesterol
Glyceryl Stearate
Tromethamine
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Parfum
Hyaluronic Acid
Panthenol
Allantoin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Butylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Linalool
Sodium Hyaluronate
Limonene
Madecassoside
Lactic Acid
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Phytosphingosine
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Trehalose, Octadecene, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Parfum, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Allantoin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Linalool, Sodium Hyaluronate, Limonene, Madecassoside, Lactic Acid, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!