The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream

The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This cream makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Propanediol

Polysilicone-11

C10-18 Triglycerides

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Ceramide NP

Polyacrylate-13

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Laureth-12

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Dipropylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Triethylhexanoin

Hydrogenated Polydecene

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Cetearyl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Squalane

C12-16 Alcohols

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Fructose

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Butylene Glycol

Palmitic Acid

Methylpropanediol

Polyquaternium-51

Betaine

Alcohol

Glycosyl Trehalose

Isononyl Isononanoate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Cellulose Gum

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Beta-Glucan

Raffinose

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Stearic Acid

Adenosine

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

EDTA

Lecithin

Sucrose

Bisabolol

Panthenol

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Folic Acid

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cholesterol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Zinc PCA

Triethanolamine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Capryloyl Glycine

Hexylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tocopherol

Sarcosine

Maltodextrin

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Oleanolic Acid

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Desamido Collagen

PEG-100 Stearate

Polysorbate 60

Parfum

Potassium Sorbate

Caprylyl Glycol

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Limonene

Hydroxycitronellal

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C12-16 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Alcohol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Triethanolamine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Sarcosine, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Desamido Collagen, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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