Skin science article
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Eye
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Eye This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin. This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Ceramide NP to streng
The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream Versus Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Eye
This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Benzyl Alcohol
Polysilicone-11
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Gluconate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Silica
Dehydroacetic Acid
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Trihydroxystearin
Tin Oxide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucomannan
CI 77891
Water, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Dehydroacetic Acid, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Trihydroxystearin, Tin Oxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, CI 77891
Paraffinum Liquidum
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Dipropylene Glycol
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sucrose Stearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Mannitol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Xylitol
Citric Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Rhamnose
Tocopherol
Phytosphingosine
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Fructooligosaccharides
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Ceramide EOP
Water, Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sucrose Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Mannitol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xylitol, Citric Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Rhamnose, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Fructooligosaccharides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Ceramide EOP
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!