Skin science article
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Pal
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Coconut Alkanes
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Dimethicone
Ectoin
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Ubiquinone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Phytate
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Dextran
Tripeptide-1
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coconut Alkanes, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ubiquinone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Dextran, Tripeptide-1
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Dimethyl Sulfone
Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes
Alpha-Arbutin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Ergothioneine
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Rh-Polypeptide-3
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media
Glycereth-7 Triacetate
Ethoxydiglycol
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Tripeptide-2
Dimer Tripeptide-43
Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tocopheryl Acetate
Xanthan Gum
Pullulan
Sodium Citrate
Polysorbate 20
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Geranium Maculatum Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Root Extract
Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
PCA
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Chloride
Carbomer
Alcohol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Disodium EDTA
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Glycerin, Dimethyl Sulfone, Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes, Alpha-Arbutin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ergothioneine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Ubiquinone, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Rh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Tripeptide-2, Dimer Tripeptide-43, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Chloride, Carbomer, Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.
Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.
The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:
Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.
When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.
Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!