The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus Skinfix Exo + Ectoin Intensive Repair Baume

The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum Versus Skinfix Exo + Ectoin Intensive Repair Baume

This hydrating serum is formulated around Ectoin and Ubiquinone to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ectoin and Lactobacillus Ferment to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

Propanediol

Coconut Alkanes

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Dimethicone

Ectoin

Phenoxyethanol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Allantoin

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Butylene Glycol

Lecithin

Ubiquinone

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Phytate

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Dextran

Tripeptide-1

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coconut Alkanes, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ubiquinone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Dextran, Tripeptide-1

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract

Behenyl Alcohol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Squalene

Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract

Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract

Amylopectin

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Acetyl Glutamine

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Phospholipids

Beta-Glucan

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Hexapeptide-11

Oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-2

Oligopeptide-3

Folic Acid

Lactic Acid

Phytosterols

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Ceramide EOP

Cetearyl Glucoside

Potassium Sorbate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ectoin, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Squalene, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Amylopectin, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phospholipids, Beta-Glucan, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Hexapeptide-11, Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-3, Folic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Phytosterols, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP, Cetearyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.

This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.

When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.

Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:

A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.

Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.

In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:

Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.

Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.

The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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