Skin science article
The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Moisturizer
The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospe
The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Betaine
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Magnesium Sulfate
Glycosphingolipids
Glycolipids
Sodium Benzoate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Oleic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Polyglycerin-3
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Butylene Glycol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetyl Alcohol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Polyester-7
Phenoxyethanol
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Steareth-21
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Carbomer
Dimethiconol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Chlorphenesin
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract
Allantoin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Disodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Rosa Damascena Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Michelia Alba Leaf Oil
Sodium Lactate
PEG-8
Ethylhexylglycerin
Coco-Glucoside
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Ascorbic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyester-7, Phenoxyethanol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-21, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Michelia Alba Leaf Oil, Sodium Lactate, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!