The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Dermalogica Active Moist

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Dermalogica Active Moist

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Coconut Alkanes

Cetearyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Saccharide Isomerate

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Hedera Helix Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Nasturtium Officinale Extract

Polysorbate 60

Caprylyl Glycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Polyquaternium-10

Ethylhexylglycerin

Triethyl Citrate

Myristic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Lavandula Hybrida Flower Extract

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Aminomethyl Propanol

Citral

Linalool

Limonene

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Coconut Alkanes, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Saccharide Isomerate, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Propanediol, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyquaternium-10, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethyl Citrate, Myristic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lavandula Hybrida Flower Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citral, Linalool, Limonene

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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