Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Good Molecules Hydrating Gel Moisturizer With Electrolytes

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Good Molecules Hydrating Gel Moisturizer With Electrolytes This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil. This calming moisturizer is formulated ar

The INKEY List Omega Water Cream Versus Good Molecules Hydrating Gel Moisturizer With Electrolytes

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Chondrus Crispus Extract and Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Carrageenan

Sea Salt

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Sodium Levulinate

Xylitol

Inositol

Ectoin

1,2-Hexanediol

Xanthan Gum

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Pentylene Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Arginine

Copper Gluconate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Carrageenan, Sea Salt, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Levulinate, Xylitol, Betaine, Inositol, Ectoin, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Citric Acid, Arginine, Copper Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Betaine
  4. 04Salicylic Acid
  5. 05Sodium Hyaluronate
  6. 06Zinc PCA
  7. 07Phenoxyethanol
  8. 08Hydroxyethylcellulose
  9. 09Maltodextrin
  10. 10Sodium Hydroxide
  11. 11Ethylhexylglycerin
  12. 12Biosaccharide Gum-1
  13. 13Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
  14. 14Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
  15. 15Glycolic Acid
  16. 16Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
  17. 17Daucus Carota Sativa Extract
  18. 18Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
  19. 19Lactic Acid
  20. 20Tartaric Acid
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side