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The INKEY List PHA Body Water Cream Versus Vaseline Gluta-Hya Serum Burst Lotion Dewy Radiance

The INKEY List PHA Body Water Cream Versus Vaseline Gluta-Hya Serum Burst Lotion Dewy Radiance What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water C15-19 Alkane Gluconolactone Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 Phenoxyethanol Glyceryl Stear

The INKEY List PHA Body Water Cream Versus Vaseline Gluta-Hya Serum Burst Lotion Dewy Radiance

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

C15-19 Alkane

Gluconolactone

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Phenoxyethanol

Glyceryl Stearate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dehydroacetic Acid

Water, C15-19 Alkane, Gluconolactone, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid

Dimethicone

Isohexadecane

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Glutathione

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine

Cystine

Sodium PCA

Petrolatum

Carbomer

Parfum

Methylparaben

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

Titanium Dioxide

Water, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Glutathione, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Cystine, Sodium PCA, Petrolatum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Methylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Titanium Dioxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  7. 07Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  8. 08In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  9. 09While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  10. 10Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  11. 11This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  12. 12This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  13. 13Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  14. 14Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  15. 15It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  16. 16Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  17. 17A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  18. 18Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  19. 19Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  20. 20Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

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The Inkey List PHA Toner The Inkey List PHA Toner ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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