Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Sodium Hyaluronate to sof

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque Versus The INKEY List Retinol Eye Cream

This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Squalane

Glycerin

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Silica Cetyl Silylate

Salicylic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Pentylene Glycol

Charcoal Powder

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Sclerotium Gum

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phytic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Kaolin, Squalane, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Charcoal Powder, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Sclerotium Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Cetearyl Olivate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Olivate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Propanediol

Glycogen

Sodium Gluconate

Retinol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dehydroacetic Acid

Citric Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

Tocopherol

Ethyl Ferulate

Humulus Lupulus Extract

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Propanediol, Glycogen, Sodium Gluconate, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Citric Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Ferulate, Humulus Lupulus Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Butylene Glycol
  5. 05Pentylene Glycol
  6. 06Propylene Glycol
  7. 07Propanediol
  8. 08Sodium Hyaluronate
  9. 09Panthenol
  10. 10Phenoxyethanol
  11. 11PEG-12 Dimethicone
  12. 12Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
  13. 13Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  14. 14Carbomer
  15. 15Polysorbate 20
  16. 16Hydroxyethylcellulose
  17. 17Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
  18. 18Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
  19. 19Phenethyl Alcohol
  20. 20Caprylyl Glycol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Seakelp Serum

The Inkey List Seakelp Serum The Inkey List Seakelp Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Levulin…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Phytic Acid Serum

The Inkey List Phytic Acid Serum The Inkey List Phytic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydrox…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side