Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Theramid Copper Peptide Versus VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot Synergy Repair Cream 100

Theramid Copper Peptide Versus VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot Synergy Repair Cream 100 This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moistu

Theramid Copper Peptide Versus VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot Synergy Repair Cream 100

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Betaine

Isododecane

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Copper Tripeptide-1

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Glycerin

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Acetyl Glutamine

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Propylene Carbonate

Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Dextran

Tocopherol

Acetic Acid

Lactic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Benzoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Betaine, Isododecane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Dextran, Tocopherol, Acetic Acid, Lactic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Palmitic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Myristic Acid

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Niacinamide

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Adenosine

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate

Panthenol

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Cholesterol

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Tbhq

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Ceramide Ns

Silica

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ceramide EOP

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-62

Propolis Extract

Asiaticoside

Madecassoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Myristic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Panthenol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Cholesterol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tbhq, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ceramide Ns, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide EOP, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-62, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propolis Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  7. 07The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  8. 08Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  9. 09Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  10. 10Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  11. 11Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  12. 12Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  13. 13This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  14. 14Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  15. 15Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  16. 16Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  17. 17It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  18. 18On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  19. 19Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  20. 20You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side