Skin science article
Tree to Tub Triple Vitamin C Ultra Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum
Tree to Tub Triple Vitamin C Ultra Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark
Tree to Tub Triple Vitamin C Ultra Brightening Serum Versus Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hyaluronic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycerin
Beta-Glucan
Sea Whip Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Cholesterol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Phytosphingosine
Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Ubiquinone
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Magnesium Aspartate
Potassium Aspartate
Sarcosine
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone
Disodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Sea Whip Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Cholesterol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Aspartate, Potassium Aspartate, Sarcosine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.