Skin science article
Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer
Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repai
Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Squalane
Glycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Lactose
Lactis Proteinum
Yogurt Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Vegetable Oil
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Sodium Lactate
Sodium PCA
Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide
Pentylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil
Citrus Limon Fruit Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Juniperus Mexicana Oil
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Stearyl Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Sorbic Acid
Phenethyl Alcohol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Linalool
Hexyl Cinnamal
Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactose, Lactis Proteinum, Yogurt Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vegetable Oil, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil, Citrus Limon Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sorbic Acid, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
C13-15 Alkane
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Decyl Oleate
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide NP
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Proline
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Lecithin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Adenosine
Phytic Acid
Glutamic Acid
Betaine
Pullulan
PCA
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Butylene Glycol, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Decyl Oleate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Proline, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Squalane, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Adenosine, Phytic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Betaine, Pullulan, PCA, Sodium PCA, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Be the first to review
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!