Skin science article
Volition Beauty Snow Mushroom Water Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
Volition Beauty Snow Mushroom Water Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster This hydrating serum is formulated around Tremella Fuciformis Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside
Volition Beauty Snow Mushroom Water Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
This hydrating serum is formulated around Tremella Fuciformis Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sea Water
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Diheptyl Succinate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Xanthan Gum
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sea Water, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Diheptyl Succinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Dimethicone
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Glyceryl Glucoside
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Tridecapeptide-1
Polyglucuronic Acid
C9-12 Alkane
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract
Bacillus Ferment
Lecithin
Sodium Phytate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hexylene Glycol
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Magnesium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Tridecapeptide-1, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C9-12 Alkane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hexylene Glycol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.
The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.
Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.