Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Y.O.U Advanced Youth Recharging Peptide Eye Cream Versus CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

Y.O.U Advanced Youth Recharging Peptide Eye Cream Versus CeraVe Eye Repair Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated aro

Y.O.U Advanced Youth Recharging Peptide Eye Cream Versus CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Diisostearyl Malate

Propanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycerin

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate

Niacinamide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Glyceryl Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

Poria Cocos Extract

Cetearyl Glucoside

Sorbitan Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Propylene Glycol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Caffeine

Cyclodextrin

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Polyacrylamide

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyacetophenone

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Butylene Glycol

Polysilicone-11

Xanthan Gum

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Laureth-7

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

Parfum

Disodium EDTA

Polysorbate 20

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Triethanolamine

Polyacrylic Acid

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract

Gentiana Scabra Root Extract

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopherol

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Lactate

Carbomer

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Diisostearyl Malate, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Poria Cocos Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caffeine, Cyclodextrin, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Butylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Laureth-7, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Triethanolamine, Polyacrylic Acid, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Gentiana Scabra Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer

Cetyl Alcohol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Jojoba Esters

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Dimethicone

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Potassium Sorbate

Ceramide EOP

Sorbitol

Zinc Citrate

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Equisetum Arvense Extract

Cholesterol

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Laureth-4

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Tetrasodium EDTA

Maltodextrin

Phytosphingosine

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Water, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Jojoba Esters, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Potassium Sorbate, Ceramide EOP, Sorbitol, Carbomer, Zinc Citrate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethanolamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Tocopherol, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Laureth-4, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Tetrasodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Triethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.

As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.

PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.

If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Everwhite Peptide Eye Cream

Everwhite Peptide Eye Cream Everwhite Peptide Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Beta-Glucan, Phenoxyethanol, Avena…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side